Mongolia - Day Trips or Gobi Tour?

A flight via Istanbul then I landed in Ulaanbaatar early in the morning. The experience in Mongolia, spanning five days, was initially intended to include an "extensive" Gobi tour. However, I wasn't really in the mood for multi-day trips featuring long drives, primitive accommodations without showers, and steep costs ranging from several hundred dollars per day for minimal standards.

Planning a trip to Mongolia can be challenging, especially when deciding on the right short trip tour. After all, with so many options and factors to consider, the question is to go on a short trip or a trip spanning over several days.

Going on Day trips or Multi-Day Trips?

Ultimately, I opted for day trips from the base in Ulaanbaatar instead of enduring a long and uncomfortable Gobi desert or similar expedition. While this meant missing out on the Gobi's unique landscapes, I questioned the value of spending 70% of the time traversing empty steppes and only 30% actually exploring the desert or lingering in Gers without proper amenities. I found the day tours provided a better balance, allowing me to appreciate Mongolia's vastness and tranquility without the hardships of an extended tour.

Multi-Day trips come with minimal comforts and high costs, sometimes $300-400 per day for basic services that do not even include a hot shower or a shower at all. Additionally, the lack of clear information from agencies and the fact that many operate only from May to September made it difficult to make an informed decision.

Arrival in Mongolia

I arrived via Turkey after an 8-hour flight from Istanbul, landing at 7 AM in Mongolia. The airport was small but efficient, with quick passport control. A recent change meant no visa was required, and getting a SIM card was easy and cheap. 

The taxi to the city was expensive at $53 for a hotel shuttle. The ride took 2 hours due to inefficient traffic. 

Despite modernization, remnants of the Soviet era were evident, leading to a somewhat structured chaos. Few people cycle, with most using cars. 

After checking in, I walked to see the Chinggis Khan building and continued to the museum. 

I planned another walk through the city on another day as I was tired from jet lag. Finding restaurants was a bit of a challenge; at least many quick Korean restaurants were visible.

Day 2 - To the Statue and the National Park

My day started at 9 AM with a pick-up, setting out for the Genghis Khan statue after a 1.5-hour drive. The driving was nice outside the city.

Standing 40 meters tall, this magnificent monument is the largest equestrian statue in the world. 

The building itself was fascinating, complete with a viewing platform on top offering panoramic views, and a museum inside where artifacts and exhibits provided a deep dive into the history of Mongolia and its legendary celebrity.

The view from the top is great, even though it can get very busy when groups arrive.

A lot of tourists arrive in big buses, but they're mainly South Korean, not Chinese. Although Chinese nationals are officially the largest group of tourists in Mongolia, guides rarely see them at major sites. It's believed many Chinese visitors come as tourists but stay to work.

It’s a prime spot to learn about the nation’s foundation and understand why Genghis Khan remains such a revered figure.

Mongolian McDonalds before National Park

First, we stopped at a traditional Mongolian restaurant, a Ger eatery with a few tables and a central stove.

They had pictures on the menu, making ordering without getting too many surprises.

The goat noodle soup and goat dumplings were good. These dishes are staples in Mongolian cuisine, reflecting the nomadic lifestyle that relies heavily on livestock.

Next on the drivers' agenda was Terelj National Park, known for its rock formations and scenic landscapes.

Scenic Landscape

The drive traversed through landscapes marked by shaman mounds, often seen with eagles perched nearby. These mounds and the shamanic practices offer a glimpse into the life of Mongolians, where ancestor worship plays a vital role. 

Everywhere are Ger tents, the white "houses" that are homes of locals. These were a mix of nomadic families and an increasing number of tourists who wanted to experience the way of living.

Reaching Turtle Mountain. The mountain, named for its unique turtle-like shape, is a popular hiking destination. 

Once at the peak, the views were spectacular. After climbing back down, there were the grazing cows.

Next to it was a monastery, a site for Buddhism in Mongolia.

The hike up to the monastery took a while, but the view from the top made it worthwhile. 

Monasteries in Mongolia are often perched in scenic spots, providing nice perspectives of the landscape.

On the return journey passing a well-stocked souvenir shop, filled with authentic items like real fur hats and bows.

The 2-hour drive back was longer due to heavy traffic in and around the city.

Day 3 - Ger Exhibition to explore Mongolian Ger's

I went to the yearly Ger exhibition and found out that Mongolia is divided into 21 provinces, each with its own unique interior design for the traditional Ger tents.

The exhibition showcased these styles, providing insights into regional differences.

Interesting settings and to see their Ger interior possibilities.

Went to a monastery located on the outskirts of the city. 

Although the site featured 6-7 temples and a massive Buddha statue around 30 meters tall, it wasn't particularly captivating.

It felt more like a typical temple complex without any distinctive features - but understandable as it's built for locals, not tourists.

Interesting Mongolia's Soviet Past and Modern Influences

Mongolia’s history as a former Soviet ally is evident throughout the city. The influence of China and Russia, Mongolia's only neighbors, is substantial. Western developments, like shopping malls and fast-food chains such as Burger King and Pizza Hut, have been met with mixed reactions. 

Headed to the famous soviet "State Department Store". The area was interesting, commercial and full of shops.

While younger Mongolian generations lean towards Western and specifically South Korean and Japanese cultural influences, the older population often holds a more nostalgic view of the Soviet era, believing things functioned better back then. South Korea’s influence is especially pronounced, with fast-food chains like CU and Chicken 25 stores, as well as numerous Korean restaurants, outnumbering Chinese and Russian ones.

Gasoline prices have doubled in recent years, now costing about 90 cents per liter. However, electricity remains incredibly cheap due to efficient coal combustion processes, with the coal being extracted and refined locally. This has resulted in significant air pollution, which is visibly noticeable over the city, and has become a point of concern for many residents.

Day 4 - Venturing into Mongolia’s Wilds

Started with a 9 AM pick-up, heading west for a 2-hour drive.

Leaving Ulaanbaatar, the journey passed through an industrial zone and then into expansive, rolling hills that stretched into endless landscapes. 

The desolation made the drive quite mesmerizing. Mongolia's open spaces and sparse population give it an interesting character in this nomadic land.

Once outside Ulaanbaatar, the landscape became very, very empty, dotted only by herds of horses and sheep.

The scenery was punctuated by fenced plots, each containing a Ger or house.

Interestingly, every Mongolian citizen is entitled to a 30x30 meter plot of land, which they can choose when they are ready to build. This unique policy encourages settlement and development across the vast countryside.

Khustai National Park

After two hours, we took a turn into Khustai National Park, a renowned nature reserve established to protect the Takhi, also known as Przewalski's horse, the last wild horse species.

A small entrance fee allowed to venture 1.5 hours deeper into the steppe, with the main goal of seeing these wild horses. 

During the drive, we spotted 3-4 horse families.

The park allows visitors to get out of the car and explore, but with an informal rule to stay at least 50 meters away from the horses, as the "main horse" could become aggressive and defend its territory with its front legs. 

High on the peaks, it's visible to see goats and deer keeping watch. And the ever-changing cloud cover and light created a dynamic and nice scene on the grasslands.

After 1.5 hours in the park, we headed back to the entrance and then began the 2-3 hour return journey after having lunch.

A restaurant in the vast landscape. Last stop before heading in the busy city.

Traffic near Ulaanbaatar was incredibly inefficient, with stops every 1-2 minutes, adding an extra hour to the drive. The return trip ultimately took around 3 hours.

The traffic congestion in the city is a significant issue, partly due to the increasing number of cars in recent years.

Day 5 - Departure to South Korea

Anticipating the notoriously bad Monday morning traffic into the city, I wisely allowed 2 hours for what is typically a 1-hour drive. Surprisingly, however, the trip to the airport took just 1 hour. The traffic flow was unusually smooth, making for a stress-free commute. 

The airport itself, though small, was very modern and efficient also for departure. It offered functional currency exchange booths, allowing travelers to convert their remaining Mongolian currency back into other denominations. 

I boarded my flight to South Korea, a journey that took approximately 3.5 hours.